Natural Stone Wall Instructions
|
Building with stone is not only beautiful, but also durable. Unlike railroad ties or wooden fences, which may rot and must be replaced every 10-15 years, stone does not deteriorate. Stonewalls also offer a charm that no other material can equal, and are especially beautiful as part of flowerbeds and perennial gardens.
A "dry" stonewall means one without mortar holding the stones together. Because the individual stones are able to shift slightly in response to frost heave, there is no need to have a foundation below the frost line. The results are so satisfying it’s easy for the project to become a minor "obsession." The following 8 easy steps will help you create a freestanding wall or retaining wall that will beautify your property for as long as you own it.
You must call "OUPS" at 1-800-362-2764 to come out and mark your underground utility wires. You are required by law to notify "OUPS" (Ohio Utilities Protection Service) at least 48 hours before you dig. Take a can of marking paint to mark out the area that you want to build the wall. After you are satisfied with the area, stake out the inside line for the wall to follow with 12" spikes and string line. Your eye may suggest changes in position or proportion once you see the staked-out area. To calculate how much stone you will need, measure the total length of the proposed wall and the average height of the stone wall. You need to multiple the length times the average height to get the face footage needed. Stone is purchased by weight. Each type of stone will provide a different face footage per ton (height x length). Stone can cover as little as 12 face feet per ton and upwards to 35 face feet per ton. Next, you need to select your stone. We carry numerous colors, shapes, and styles. There are two basic shapes of landscape wall stone. "Irregular" stone is randomly shaped but relatively flat, it is usually more difficult to work. "Split" or "Cut" stone is shaped to be uniform and flat. Split or Cut stone gives your wall a more formal appearance, requires less stone, easier to work with, and the overall project is usually cheaper. You’ll choose the particular variety and shape based on the look you want, the difficulty working with the stone, the maximum height obtainable with the stone, and the price of the stone.
Dig a foundation trench about 6 inches deep. The trench should be 12" wider than the proposed wall (6" to each side). Put the underlayment into the trench. The underlayment should fill the trench with extra fabric on the interior side of the wall. This will be used to hold the backfill in place. Fill the trench with a #8 or #57 gravel to just below (about 1"-2") the original ground level to create a stable foundation for the wall. Carefully level the gravel with a 4' level; a board the width of your trench is helpful to spread the gravel.
Transport a good selection of stones to where you want to build. Select stones that are all the same thickness. Begin to place stones to form your wall at the lowest elevation of your wall. Use all the same thickness of stone on each course. You will lay different stone thickness on each course built. Do not go from thickest to thinnest or vice versa. Interchange different thicknesses for each course built. When you have a seam between two stones in a course, place one stone over the seam in the next course. Periodically check to ensure that the wall is level. Continue to build your wall until completed. .
Place a perforated drain tile along the back side of the wall for drainage. Then, back fill the wall with the #8 or #57 gravel. The base of the wall should have the most gravel and the gravel should gradual diminish as it gets to the top course on the wall.
To complete your project, backfill any remaining areas with topsoil, then mulch.
|
|
| | |  | We deliver bulk
sand, gravel, mulch,
and topsoil |
| | |  | | We offer a variety
of bagged topsoil,
sand, gravel and mulch |
|
Download Windows Media Player for Mac or PC